Shelf Pin Drilling Jig / Gabarit de perçage de supports d’étagère

Voici les supports d’étagère réglables que j’utilise pour mes projets. Ils requièrent des trous de 1/4’’.

Here are the adjustable shelf pins that I use on my projects. They require 1/4’’ holes.

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Pour espacer les trous uniformément, voici le gabarit que j’utilise avec ma toupie, fait de contreplaqué de 1/2’’ d’épaisseur. La toupie glisse sur cette face. Remarquez la ligne perpendiculaire centrale. Elle est très importante pour localiser le gabarit sur les pièces à travailler. Des trous de 5/8’’ ont été percés à la perceuse à colonne à l’aide d’un foret Forstner à 1’’ centres et un trou de 1/4’’ a été percé à chaque extrémité. Ces trous de 1/4’’ aideront à localiser à nouveau le gabarit avec un goujon (ou une cheville) de 1/4’’ pour percer davantage de trous.

To space the holes evenly, here is this jig that I use with my router made out of 1/2’’ plywood. The router rides on this face. Note the perpendicular center line. This line is very important to set the jig on workpieces. Using a 5/8’’ Forstner bit, holes have been bored at 1’’ center at the drill press and a 1/4’’ hole have been drilled at each end. Those 1/4’’ holes will help relocate the jig using a 1/4’’ dowel (or a pin) to drill more holes.

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Sous le gabarit, ce guide coulissant sert à établir la distance des trous par rapport aux bords extérieurs des montants. Des rondelles et des vis à molettes le fixe en place.

Under the jig, this sliding fence sets the distance from the holes and the exterior edges of the uprights. Wing nuts and fender washers lock it down.

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Chaque extrémité permet un ajustement précis grâce aux boulons de carrosserie qui glissent dans des rainures.

Each end can be precisely adjusted, thanks to the carriage bolts that slide in the slots.

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Pour utiliser le gabarit, je trace des lignes centrales sur les montants d’une étagère.

To use the jig, I draw center lines on the uprights of a bookcase.

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Après avoir ajusté le guide inférieur selon la distance des trous par rapport au bord et aligné les lignes centrales de la pièce et du gabarit, je les assujettis sur l’établi à l’aide de serre-joints.

After aligning the center lines of the jig and the upright and after setting the fence from under according to the required distance of the holes from the edge, I secure them both to the workbench with clamps.

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Afin d’éviter de percer aux mauvais endroits, je recouvre les trous non utilisés avec du ruban. Remarquez les lignes centrales alignées.

To prevent from boring in wrong locations, I like to cover the unused holes with masking tape. Take note of the aligned center lines.

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J’installe un collet (ou guide de gabarit) de 5/8’’ sur la toupie et un fer spiralé plongeant de 1/4’’.

I install a 5/8’’ colar (or guide bushing) on the router as well as a plunging 1/4’’ spiral bit.

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Ensuite j’ajuste la butée de profondeur de la toupie.

Then I set the depth stop of the router.

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Pour faire cette série de trous, je dépose le collet de la toupie dans chaque trou de 5/8’’ et je fais les plongées.

To make this set of holes, I drop the collar of the router in each 5/8’’ hole and I make the plunges.

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Le travail est fait sur un côté des montants.

The job is done on one side of the uprights.

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Après avoir ajusté le guide inférieur pour compenser les feuillures pour le panneau arrière et aligné les lignes centrales, je suis près à faire une autre série de trous.

After setting the fence from under to compensate for the rabbets for the back panel and aligning the center lines, I’m ready to make another set of holes.

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8 Responses to Shelf Pin Drilling Jig / Gabarit de perçage de supports d’étagère

  1. Eric R says:

    Very informative.
    Thank you Serge.
    Your jigs and fixtures are always very helpful.

  2. Rodney says:

    Nice jig. I built one just about like the one you built, works great except for one thing. I use a 1/4 inch spiral router bit but all the holes are to large for the 1/4 inch shelf pins which makes them very loose. Any ideas? Thanks

    • Rodney, Are you really buying 1/4 inch shelf pins. I know there are smaller ones on the market to match the European system. If you still want to use your pins, try this tip from a previous post of mine.

      Keep me posted.

      Best,

      • Rodney says:

        Router bit is .248 inches and shelf pin is .246 inch. Pkg. for the pin says 1/4 inch . Do you know if anybody makes a bigger diameter size or should I use metric size?
        Thanks
        Rod

        • Rodney, According to those new information, I suspect a run-out on your router’s shaft or chuck. I suggest you try another router or borrow one from a friend and try your jig, your guide bushing and your router bit with it. According to your measurements, it should fit like a glove.

          Best,

          Serge

          • Rodney says:

            Took your advise and changed routers which had a bigger base plate. This helped a little. Also bought the Woodpeckers shelf pin template which helped a lot and it had a few features that I liked . Thanks again for your help in this matter.Learned a lot on this project.
            Rodney

          • Rodney, I didn’t do much, but I’m glad you’re happy with your new jig. You didn’t mentioned, but I believe the size of your holes meets your expectations now.

            Best,

            Serge

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