Lors du collage et de l’assemblage de ce projet, malheureusement certains montants ont glissés dans les rainure des biscuits. Parce que j’étais pressé à installer et serrer les 72 biscuits et les 9 montants avant que la colle ne fige, je n’ai vu le problème que lorsque j’ai commencé à nettoyer les bavures de colle.
While clamping this project, unfortunately some uprights have creeped in the biscuit slots. Because I was in a hurry to get the 72 biscuits and 9 uprights installed and clamped before the glue set, I saw the problem only when I started to clean glue squeeze out.
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Sachant qu’il serait difficile de faire un bon travail avec une ponceuse à bande pour niveler les montants, j’ai fabriqué ce gabarit pour supporter adéquatement ma toupie (défonceuse) équipée d’un fer droit (fraise) de 1/2″ (le trou rond de gauche n’a rien à voir ici – supposons que c’est pour l’allègement !). Je l’ai fabriqué avec une pièce de panneau de fibres durci 1/4″ (Masonite) de 14″ X 18″. J’ai fait la rainure avec une scie emporte-pièce (scie cloche) de 2-1/2″ et une scie sauteuse.
Knowing that it would be difficult to make a good job with a belt sander to even out the uprights, I deviced this trimming jig to properly support my router outfitted with a 1/2″ straight bit (the left round hole has nothing to do here – lets say it’s for lightness!). I made it using a 14″ X 18″ piece of 1/4″ thick hardboard (Masonite) and the slot is 2 1/2″ X 14″. I made the slot with a 2-1/2″ hole saw and a jig saw.
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Après avoir assujetti le gabarit sur la façade du caisson avec serre-joints, j’ai ajusté la profondeur du fer (fraise) sur le caisson.
After clamping the jig on the cabinet front, I bottomed out the router bit against the cabinet.
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La prochaine photo montre la toupie fin prête à éliminer les inégalités.
The next photo shows the router ready to eliminate the discrepancies.
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Résultat parfait. Notez que même les coulisses centrales ont été parfaitement alignés.
Perfect result. Note that even the center runners have been ligned up perfectly.
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Étant humain, j’ai fabriqué mon gabarit assez gros pour pouvoir l’utiliser sur de plus gros projets !
Being human, I made the jig big enough to be able to use it on bigger projects as well !
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Serge,
Good, simple solution. But how did you keep the 1/4″ hardboard from sagging in the middle, creating a concave surface?
Chris
Good point, Chris, but on this projet it was not an issue since the span was only 6″, the same as the router base diameter. However, adequate support, like stiffeners, should be added for longer spans.
Thanks for your input.
Best,
This is a straight forward and logical approach, like most of your techniques, but I have to ask: how do you cut such straight lines with your jigsaw? Even when I use a guide, my jigsaw lines wander from the blade flex alone! The result is that I never use a jigsaw for anything but rough cuts.
No secret here. Very slow speed and very good blades (think Bosch 101AO). On this particular jig I rounder over all the edges so the router won’t catch and I also sanded the remaining. After reading your comment I checked the jig with a straight edge and it is not that perfect!
Best,
I use the jig saw a lot (Bosch). You just can’t beat a sharp blade for accuracy. Sharp blades do not require that must pushing, which means less chance to wander. Also make sure your blade is perpendicular to the base.
Having sharp tools is the crucial thing of woodworking. And before starting a new project, experience shows that each tool should be checked for square and/or perpendicular. All reminders are welcome !
Best,